Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements
Identifieur interne : 004691 ( Ncbi/Merge ); précédent : 004690; suivant : 004692Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements
Auteurs : Ludovic Seifert [France] ; Romain Cordier [France] ; Dominic Orth [Pays-Bas] ; Yoan Courtine [France] ; James L. Croft [Australie]Source :
- PLoS ONE [ 1932-6203 ] ; 2017.
Descripteurs français
- KwdFr :
- MESH :
English descriptors
- KwdEn :
- MESH :
- physiology : Exploratory Behavior, Eye Movements, Mountaineering, Movement, Psychomotor Performance, Thinking.
- Adolescent, Adult, Humans, Young Adult.
Abstract
This study examined the role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and on exploratory movements of the limbs, in order to understand whether previewing helps people to perceive and to realize affordances. Eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers previewed a 10 m high route of 5b difficulty on French scale, then climbed it with a top-rope as fluently as possible. Gaze behavior was collected from an eye tracking system during the preview and allowed us to determine the number of times they scanned the route, and which of four route previewing strategies (fragmentary, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks) they used. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, both feet, and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction of each limb and hip during the ascent. We were able to detect movement and immobility phases of each IMU using segmentation and classification processes. Depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving, five states of behavior were detected: immobility, postural regulation, hold exploration, hold change, and hold traction. Using cluster analysis we identified four clusters of gaze behavior during route previewing depending on route preview duration, number of scan paths, fixations duration, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks strategies. The number of scan paths was positively correlated with relative duration of exploration and negatively correlated with relative duration of hold changes during the ascent. Additionally, a high relative duration of sequence-of-blocks strategy and zigzagging strategy were associated with a high relative duration of immobility during the ascent. Route previewing might help to pick up functional information about reachable, graspable, and usable holds, in order to chain movements together and to find the route. In other words, route previewing might contribute to perceiving and realizing nested affordances.
Url:
DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0176306
PubMed: 28441425
PubMed Central: 5404847
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PMC:5404847Le document en format XML
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<front><div type="abstract" xml:lang="en"><p>This study examined the role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and on exploratory movements of the limbs, in order to understand whether previewing helps people to perceive and to realize affordances. Eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers previewed a 10 m high route of 5b difficulty on French scale, then climbed it with a top-rope as fluently as possible. Gaze behavior was collected from an eye tracking system during the preview and allowed us to determine the number of times they scanned the route, and which of four route previewing strategies (fragmentary, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks) they used. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, both feet, and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction of each limb and hip during the ascent. We were able to detect movement and immobility phases of each IMU using segmentation and classification processes. Depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving, five states of behavior were detected: immobility, postural regulation, hold exploration, hold change, and hold traction. Using cluster analysis we identified four clusters of gaze behavior during route previewing depending on route preview duration, number of scan paths, fixations duration, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks strategies. The number of scan paths was positively correlated with relative duration of exploration and negatively correlated with relative duration of hold changes during the ascent. Additionally, a high relative duration of sequence-of-blocks strategy and zigzagging strategy were associated with a high relative duration of immobility during the ascent. Route previewing might help to pick up functional information about reachable, graspable, and usable holds, in order to chain movements together and to find the route. In other words, route previewing might contribute to perceiving and realizing nested affordances.</p>
</div>
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<author><name sortKey="Croft, James L" sort="Croft, James L" uniqKey="Croft J" first="James L." last="Croft">James L. Croft</name>
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<author><name sortKey="Cordier, Romain" sort="Cordier, Romain" uniqKey="Cordier R" first="Romain" last="Cordier">Romain Cordier</name>
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</nlm:aff>
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<author><name sortKey="Orth, Dominic" sort="Orth, Dominic" uniqKey="Orth D" first="Dominic" last="Orth">Dominic Orth</name>
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<author><name sortKey="Courtine, Yoan" sort="Courtine, Yoan" uniqKey="Courtine Y" first="Yoan" last="Courtine">Yoan Courtine</name>
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</nlm:aff>
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<author><name sortKey="Croft, James L" sort="Croft, James L" uniqKey="Croft J" first="James L." last="Croft">James L. Croft</name>
<affiliation wicri:level="1"><nlm:aff id="aff003"><addr-line>Centre of Exercise and Sports Science Research, School of Medical and Health Sciences, Edith Cowan University, Perth, Australia</addr-line>
</nlm:aff>
<country xml:lang="fr">Australie</country>
<wicri:regionArea>Centre of Exercise and Sports Science Research, School of Medical and Health Sciences, Edith Cowan University, Perth</wicri:regionArea>
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<series><title level="j">PLoS ONE</title>
<idno type="eISSN">1932-6203</idno>
<imprint><date when="2017">2017</date>
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<front><div type="abstract" xml:lang="en"><p>This study examined the role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and on exploratory movements of the limbs, in order to understand whether previewing helps people to perceive and to realize affordances. Eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers previewed a 10 m high route of 5b difficulty on French scale, then climbed it with a top-rope as fluently as possible. Gaze behavior was collected from an eye tracking system during the preview and allowed us to determine the number of times they scanned the route, and which of four route previewing strategies (fragmentary, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks) they used. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, both feet, and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction of each limb and hip during the ascent. We were able to detect movement and immobility phases of each IMU using segmentation and classification processes. Depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving, five states of behavior were detected: immobility, postural regulation, hold exploration, hold change, and hold traction. Using cluster analysis we identified four clusters of gaze behavior during route previewing depending on route preview duration, number of scan paths, fixations duration, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks strategies. The number of scan paths was positively correlated with relative duration of exploration and negatively correlated with relative duration of hold changes during the ascent. Additionally, a high relative duration of sequence-of-blocks strategy and zigzagging strategy were associated with a high relative duration of immobility during the ascent. Route previewing might help to pick up functional information about reachable, graspable, and usable holds, in order to chain movements together and to find the route. In other words, route previewing might contribute to perceiving and realizing nested affordances.</p>
</div>
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<country xml:lang="fr">France</country>
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</author>
<author><name sortKey="Courtine, Yoan" sort="Courtine, Yoan" uniqKey="Courtine Y" first="Yoan" last="Courtine">Yoan Courtine</name>
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<author><name sortKey="Croft, James L" sort="Croft, James L" uniqKey="Croft J" first="James L" last="Croft">James L. Croft</name>
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<sourceDesc><biblStruct><analytic><title xml:lang="en">Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements.</title>
<author><name sortKey="Seifert, Ludovic" sort="Seifert, Ludovic" uniqKey="Seifert L" first="Ludovic" last="Seifert">Ludovic Seifert</name>
<affiliation wicri:level="3"><nlm:affiliation>Centre d'Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Rouen, France.</nlm:affiliation>
<country xml:lang="fr">France</country>
<wicri:regionArea>Centre d'Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Rouen</wicri:regionArea>
<placeName><region type="region">Région Normandie</region>
<region type="old region">Haute-Normandie</region>
<settlement type="city">Rouen</settlement>
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</author>
<author><name sortKey="Cordier, Romain" sort="Cordier, Romain" uniqKey="Cordier R" first="Romain" last="Cordier">Romain Cordier</name>
<affiliation wicri:level="3"><nlm:affiliation>Centre d'Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Rouen, France.</nlm:affiliation>
<country xml:lang="fr">France</country>
<wicri:regionArea>Centre d'Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Rouen</wicri:regionArea>
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<region type="old region">Haute-Normandie</region>
<settlement type="city">Rouen</settlement>
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<author><name sortKey="Orth, Dominic" sort="Orth, Dominic" uniqKey="Orth D" first="Dominic" last="Orth">Dominic Orth</name>
<affiliation wicri:level="4"><nlm:affiliation>MOVE Research Institute, Faculty of Behavioral and Movement Sciences, VU University of Amsterdam, Amsterdam, The Netherlands.</nlm:affiliation>
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<author><name sortKey="Courtine, Yoan" sort="Courtine, Yoan" uniqKey="Courtine Y" first="Yoan" last="Courtine">Yoan Courtine</name>
<affiliation wicri:level="3"><nlm:affiliation>Centre d'Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Rouen, France.</nlm:affiliation>
<country xml:lang="fr">France</country>
<wicri:regionArea>Centre d'Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Rouen</wicri:regionArea>
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<region type="old region">Haute-Normandie</region>
<settlement type="city">Rouen</settlement>
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</author>
<author><name sortKey="Croft, James L" sort="Croft, James L" uniqKey="Croft J" first="James L" last="Croft">James L. Croft</name>
<affiliation wicri:level="1"><nlm:affiliation>Centre of Exercise and Sports Science Research, School of Medical and Health Sciences, Edith Cowan University, Perth, Australia.</nlm:affiliation>
<country xml:lang="fr">Australie</country>
<wicri:regionArea>Centre of Exercise and Sports Science Research, School of Medical and Health Sciences, Edith Cowan University, Perth</wicri:regionArea>
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<series><title level="j">PloS one</title>
<idno type="eISSN">1932-6203</idno>
<imprint><date when="2017" type="published">2017</date>
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<profileDesc><textClass><keywords scheme="KwdEn" xml:lang="en"><term>Adolescent</term>
<term>Adult</term>
<term>Exploratory Behavior (physiology)</term>
<term>Eye Movements (physiology)</term>
<term>Humans</term>
<term>Mountaineering (physiology)</term>
<term>Movement (physiology)</term>
<term>Psychomotor Performance (physiology)</term>
<term>Thinking (physiology)</term>
<term>Young Adult</term>
</keywords>
<keywords scheme="KwdFr" xml:lang="fr"><term>Adolescent</term>
<term>Adulte</term>
<term>Alpinisme (physiologie)</term>
<term>Comportement explorateur (physiologie)</term>
<term>Humains</term>
<term>Jeune adulte</term>
<term>Mouvement (physiologie)</term>
<term>Mouvements oculaires (physiologie)</term>
<term>Pensée (activité mentale) (physiologie)</term>
<term>Performance psychomotrice (physiologie)</term>
</keywords>
<keywords scheme="MESH" qualifier="physiologie" xml:lang="fr"><term>Alpinisme</term>
<term>Comportement explorateur</term>
<term>Mouvement</term>
<term>Mouvements oculaires</term>
<term>Pensée (activité mentale)</term>
<term>Performance psychomotrice</term>
</keywords>
<keywords scheme="MESH" qualifier="physiology" xml:lang="en"><term>Exploratory Behavior</term>
<term>Eye Movements</term>
<term>Mountaineering</term>
<term>Movement</term>
<term>Psychomotor Performance</term>
<term>Thinking</term>
</keywords>
<keywords scheme="MESH" xml:lang="en"><term>Adolescent</term>
<term>Adult</term>
<term>Humans</term>
<term>Young Adult</term>
</keywords>
<keywords scheme="MESH" xml:lang="fr"><term>Adolescent</term>
<term>Adulte</term>
<term>Humains</term>
<term>Jeune adulte</term>
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<front><div type="abstract" xml:lang="en">This study examined the role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and on exploratory movements of the limbs, in order to understand whether previewing helps people to perceive and to realize affordances. Eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers previewed a 10 m high route of 5b difficulty on French scale, then climbed it with a top-rope as fluently as possible. Gaze behavior was collected from an eye tracking system during the preview and allowed us to determine the number of times they scanned the route, and which of four route previewing strategies (fragmentary, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks) they used. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, both feet, and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction of each limb and hip during the ascent. We were able to detect movement and immobility phases of each IMU using segmentation and classification processes. Depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving, five states of behavior were detected: immobility, postural regulation, hold exploration, hold change, and hold traction. Using cluster analysis we identified four clusters of gaze behavior during route previewing depending on route preview duration, number of scan paths, fixations duration, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks strategies. The number of scan paths was positively correlated with relative duration of exploration and negatively correlated with relative duration of hold changes during the ascent. Additionally, a high relative duration of sequence-of-blocks strategy and zigzagging strategy were associated with a high relative duration of immobility during the ascent. Route previewing might help to pick up functional information about reachable, graspable, and usable holds, in order to chain movements together and to find the route. In other words, route previewing might contribute to perceiving and realizing nested affordances.</div>
</front>
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