Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements.
Identifieur interne : 000E27 ( PubMed/Curation ); précédent : 000E26; suivant : 000E28Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements.
Auteurs : Ludovic Seifert [France] ; Romain Cordier [France] ; Dominic Orth [Pays-Bas] ; Yoan Courtine [France] ; James L. Croft [Australie]Source :
- PloS one [ 1932-6203 ] ; 2017.
Descripteurs français
- KwdFr :
- MESH :
English descriptors
- KwdEn :
- MESH :
- physiology : Exploratory Behavior, Eye Movements, Mountaineering, Movement, Psychomotor Performance, Thinking.
- Adolescent, Adult, Humans, Young Adult.
Abstract
This study examined the role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and on exploratory movements of the limbs, in order to understand whether previewing helps people to perceive and to realize affordances. Eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers previewed a 10 m high route of 5b difficulty on French scale, then climbed it with a top-rope as fluently as possible. Gaze behavior was collected from an eye tracking system during the preview and allowed us to determine the number of times they scanned the route, and which of four route previewing strategies (fragmentary, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks) they used. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, both feet, and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction of each limb and hip during the ascent. We were able to detect movement and immobility phases of each IMU using segmentation and classification processes. Depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving, five states of behavior were detected: immobility, postural regulation, hold exploration, hold change, and hold traction. Using cluster analysis we identified four clusters of gaze behavior during route previewing depending on route preview duration, number of scan paths, fixations duration, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks strategies. The number of scan paths was positively correlated with relative duration of exploration and negatively correlated with relative duration of hold changes during the ascent. Additionally, a high relative duration of sequence-of-blocks strategy and zigzagging strategy were associated with a high relative duration of immobility during the ascent. Route previewing might help to pick up functional information about reachable, graspable, and usable holds, in order to chain movements together and to find the route. In other words, route previewing might contribute to perceiving and realizing nested affordances.
DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0176306
PubMed: 28441425
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Croft</name><affiliation wicri:level="1"><nlm:affiliation>Centre of Exercise and Sports Science Research, School of Medical and Health Sciences, Edith Cowan University, Perth, Australia.</nlm:affiliation><country xml:lang="fr">Australie</country><wicri:regionArea>Centre of Exercise and Sports Science Research, School of Medical and Health Sciences, Edith Cowan University, Perth</wicri:regionArea></affiliation></author></analytic><series><title level="j">PloS one</title><idno type="eISSN">1932-6203</idno><imprint><date when="2017" type="published">2017</date></imprint></series></biblStruct></sourceDesc></fileDesc><profileDesc><textClass><keywords scheme="KwdEn" xml:lang="en"><term>Adolescent</term><term>Adult</term><term>Exploratory Behavior (physiology)</term><term>Eye Movements (physiology)</term><term>Humans</term><term>Mountaineering (physiology)</term><term>Movement (physiology)</term><term>Psychomotor Performance (physiology)</term><term>Thinking (physiology)</term><term>Young Adult</term></keywords><keywords scheme="KwdFr" xml:lang="fr"><term>Adolescent</term><term>Adulte</term><term>Alpinisme (physiologie)</term><term>Comportement explorateur (physiologie)</term><term>Humains</term><term>Jeune adulte</term><term>Mouvement (physiologie)</term><term>Mouvements oculaires (physiologie)</term><term>Pensée (activité mentale) (physiologie)</term><term>Performance psychomotrice (physiologie)</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" qualifier="physiologie" xml:lang="fr"><term>Alpinisme</term><term>Comportement explorateur</term><term>Mouvement</term><term>Mouvements oculaires</term><term>Pensée (activité mentale)</term><term>Performance psychomotrice</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" qualifier="physiology" xml:lang="en"><term>Exploratory Behavior</term><term>Eye Movements</term><term>Mountaineering</term><term>Movement</term><term>Psychomotor Performance</term><term>Thinking</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" xml:lang="en"><term>Adolescent</term><term>Adult</term><term>Humans</term><term>Young Adult</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" xml:lang="fr"><term>Adolescent</term><term>Adulte</term><term>Humains</term><term>Jeune adulte</term></keywords></textClass></profileDesc></teiHeader><front><div type="abstract" xml:lang="en">This study examined the role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and on exploratory movements of the limbs, in order to understand whether previewing helps people to perceive and to realize affordances. Eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers previewed a 10 m high route of 5b difficulty on French scale, then climbed it with a top-rope as fluently as possible. Gaze behavior was collected from an eye tracking system during the preview and allowed us to determine the number of times they scanned the route, and which of four route previewing strategies (fragmentary, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks) they used. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, both feet, and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction of each limb and hip during the ascent. We were able to detect movement and immobility phases of each IMU using segmentation and classification processes. Depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving, five states of behavior were detected: immobility, postural regulation, hold exploration, hold change, and hold traction. Using cluster analysis we identified four clusters of gaze behavior during route previewing depending on route preview duration, number of scan paths, fixations duration, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks strategies. The number of scan paths was positively correlated with relative duration of exploration and negatively correlated with relative duration of hold changes during the ascent. Additionally, a high relative duration of sequence-of-blocks strategy and zigzagging strategy were associated with a high relative duration of immobility during the ascent. Route previewing might help to pick up functional information about reachable, graspable, and usable holds, in order to chain movements together and to find the route. In other words, route previewing might contribute to perceiving and realizing nested affordances.</div></front></TEI><pubmed><MedlineCitation Status="MEDLINE" Owner="NLM"><PMID Version="1">28441425</PMID><DateCreated><Year>2017</Year><Month>04</Month><Day>25</Day></DateCreated><DateCompleted><Year>2017</Year><Month>09</Month><Day>06</Day></DateCompleted><DateRevised><Year>2017</Year><Month>09</Month><Day>06</Day></DateRevised><Article PubModel="Electronic-eCollection"><Journal><ISSN IssnType="Electronic">1932-6203</ISSN><JournalIssue CitedMedium="Internet"><Volume>12</Volume><Issue>4</Issue><PubDate><Year>2017</Year></PubDate></JournalIssue><Title>PloS one</Title><ISOAbbreviation>PLoS ONE</ISOAbbreviation></Journal><ArticleTitle>Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements.</ArticleTitle><Pagination><MedlinePgn>e0176306</MedlinePgn></Pagination><ELocationID EIdType="doi" ValidYN="Y">10.1371/journal.pone.0176306</ELocationID><Abstract><AbstractText>This study examined the role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and on exploratory movements of the limbs, in order to understand whether previewing helps people to perceive and to realize affordances. Eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers previewed a 10 m high route of 5b difficulty on French scale, then climbed it with a top-rope as fluently as possible. Gaze behavior was collected from an eye tracking system during the preview and allowed us to determine the number of times they scanned the route, and which of four route previewing strategies (fragmentary, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks) they used. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, both feet, and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction of each limb and hip during the ascent. We were able to detect movement and immobility phases of each IMU using segmentation and classification processes. Depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving, five states of behavior were detected: immobility, postural regulation, hold exploration, hold change, and hold traction. Using cluster analysis we identified four clusters of gaze behavior during route previewing depending on route preview duration, number of scan paths, fixations duration, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks strategies. The number of scan paths was positively correlated with relative duration of exploration and negatively correlated with relative duration of hold changes during the ascent. Additionally, a high relative duration of sequence-of-blocks strategy and zigzagging strategy were associated with a high relative duration of immobility during the ascent. Route previewing might help to pick up functional information about reachable, graspable, and usable holds, in order to chain movements together and to find the route. In other words, route previewing might contribute to perceiving and realizing nested affordances.</AbstractText></Abstract><AuthorList CompleteYN="Y"><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Seifert</LastName><ForeName>Ludovic</ForeName><Initials>L</Initials><Identifier Source="ORCID">http://orcid.org/0000-0003-1712-5013</Identifier><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>Centre d'Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Rouen, France.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo></Author><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Cordier</LastName><ForeName>Romain</ForeName><Initials>R</Initials><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>Centre d'Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Rouen, France.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo></Author><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Orth</LastName><ForeName>Dominic</ForeName><Initials>D</Initials><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>MOVE Research Institute, Faculty of Behavioral and Movement Sciences, VU University of Amsterdam, Amsterdam, The Netherlands.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo></Author><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Courtine</LastName><ForeName>Yoan</ForeName><Initials>Y</Initials><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>Centre d'Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Rouen, France.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo></Author><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Croft</LastName><ForeName>James L</ForeName><Initials>JL</Initials><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>Centre of Exercise and Sports Science Research, School of Medical and Health Sciences, Edith Cowan University, Perth, Australia.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo></Author></AuthorList><Language>eng</Language><PublicationTypeList><PublicationType UI="D016428">Journal Article</PublicationType></PublicationTypeList><ArticleDate DateType="Electronic"><Year>2017</Year><Month>04</Month><Day>25</Day></ArticleDate></Article><MedlineJournalInfo><Country>United States</Country><MedlineTA>PLoS One</MedlineTA><NlmUniqueID>101285081</NlmUniqueID><ISSNLinking>1932-6203</ISSNLinking></MedlineJournalInfo><CitationSubset>IM</CitationSubset><CommentsCorrectionsList><CommentsCorrections RefType="Cites"><RefSource>J Mot Behav. 2002 Mar;34(1):25-36</RefSource><PMID Version="1">11880247</PMID></CommentsCorrections><CommentsCorrections RefType="Cites"><RefSource>J Appl Biomech. 2014 Oct;30(5):619-25</RefSource><PMID Version="1">25010435</PMID></CommentsCorrections><CommentsCorrections RefType="Cites"><RefSource>Brain Cogn. 2010 Jun;73(1):68-73</RefSource><PMID Version="1">20381226</PMID></CommentsCorrections><CommentsCorrections RefType="Cites"><RefSource>Q J Exp Psychol A. 2002 Jul;55(3):775-92</RefSource><PMID 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Version="1">25309480</PMID></CommentsCorrections><CommentsCorrections RefType="Cites"><RefSource>Percept Mot Skills. 2002 Aug;95(1):3-9</RefSource><PMID Version="1">12365268</PMID></CommentsCorrections></CommentsCorrectionsList><MeshHeadingList><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D000293" MajorTopicYN="N">Adolescent</DescriptorName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D000328" MajorTopicYN="N">Adult</DescriptorName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D005106" MajorTopicYN="N">Exploratory Behavior</DescriptorName><QualifierName UI="Q000502" MajorTopicYN="Y">physiology</QualifierName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D005133" MajorTopicYN="N">Eye Movements</DescriptorName><QualifierName UI="Q000502" MajorTopicYN="N">physiology</QualifierName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D006801" MajorTopicYN="N">Humans</DescriptorName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D009051" MajorTopicYN="N">Mountaineering</DescriptorName><QualifierName 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