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Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements

Identifieur interne : 000101 ( Pmc/Checkpoint ); précédent : 000100; suivant : 000102

Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements

Auteurs : Ludovic Seifert [France] ; Romain Cordier [France] ; Dominic Orth [Pays-Bas] ; Yoan Courtine [France] ; James L. Croft [Australie]

Source :

RBID : PMC:5404847

Abstract

This study examined the role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and on exploratory movements of the limbs, in order to understand whether previewing helps people to perceive and to realize affordances. Eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers previewed a 10 m high route of 5b difficulty on French scale, then climbed it with a top-rope as fluently as possible. Gaze behavior was collected from an eye tracking system during the preview and allowed us to determine the number of times they scanned the route, and which of four route previewing strategies (fragmentary, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks) they used. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, both feet, and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction of each limb and hip during the ascent. We were able to detect movement and immobility phases of each IMU using segmentation and classification processes. Depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving, five states of behavior were detected: immobility, postural regulation, hold exploration, hold change, and hold traction. Using cluster analysis we identified four clusters of gaze behavior during route previewing depending on route preview duration, number of scan paths, fixations duration, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks strategies. The number of scan paths was positively correlated with relative duration of exploration and negatively correlated with relative duration of hold changes during the ascent. Additionally, a high relative duration of sequence-of-blocks strategy and zigzagging strategy were associated with a high relative duration of immobility during the ascent. Route previewing might help to pick up functional information about reachable, graspable, and usable holds, in order to chain movements together and to find the route. In other words, route previewing might contribute to perceiving and realizing nested affordances.


Url:
DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0176306
PubMed: 28441425
PubMed Central: 5404847


Affiliations:


Links toward previous steps (curation, corpus...)


Links to Exploration step

PMC:5404847

Le document en format XML

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<p>This study examined the role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and on exploratory movements of the limbs, in order to understand whether previewing helps people to perceive and to realize affordances. Eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers previewed a 10 m high route of 5b difficulty on French scale, then climbed it with a top-rope as fluently as possible. Gaze behavior was collected from an eye tracking system during the preview and allowed us to determine the number of times they scanned the route, and which of four route previewing strategies (fragmentary, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks) they used. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, both feet, and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction of each limb and hip during the ascent. We were able to detect movement and immobility phases of each IMU using segmentation and classification processes. Depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving, five states of behavior were detected: immobility, postural regulation, hold exploration, hold change, and hold traction. Using cluster analysis we identified four clusters of gaze behavior during route previewing depending on route preview duration, number of scan paths, fixations duration, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks strategies. The number of scan paths was positively correlated with relative duration of exploration and negatively correlated with relative duration of hold changes during the ascent. Additionally, a high relative duration of sequence-of-blocks strategy and zigzagging strategy were associated with a high relative duration of immobility during the ascent. Route previewing might help to pick up functional information about reachable, graspable, and usable holds, in order to chain movements together and to find the route. In other words, route previewing might contribute to perceiving and realizing nested affordances.</p>
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<article-title>Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements</article-title>
<alt-title alt-title-type="running-head">Role of route previewing strategies in climbing</alt-title>
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<contrib-group>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<contrib-id authenticated="true" contrib-id-type="orcid">http://orcid.org/0000-0003-1712-5013</contrib-id>
<name>
<surname>Seifert</surname>
<given-names>Ludovic</given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff001">
<sup>1</sup>
</xref>
<xref ref-type="corresp" rid="cor001">*</xref>
</contrib>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<name>
<surname>Cordier</surname>
<given-names>Romain</given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff001">
<sup>1</sup>
</xref>
</contrib>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<name>
<surname>Orth</surname>
<given-names>Dominic</given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff002">
<sup>2</sup>
</xref>
</contrib>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<name>
<surname>Courtine</surname>
<given-names>Yoan</given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff001">
<sup>1</sup>
</xref>
</contrib>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<name>
<surname>Croft</surname>
<given-names>James L.</given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff003">
<sup>3</sup>
</xref>
</contrib>
</contrib-group>
<aff id="aff001">
<label>1</label>
<addr-line>Centre d’Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Rouen, France</addr-line>
</aff>
<aff id="aff002">
<label>2</label>
<addr-line>MOVE Research Institute, Faculty of Behavioral and Movement Sciences, VU University of Amsterdam, Amsterdam, The Netherlands</addr-line>
</aff>
<aff id="aff003">
<label>3</label>
<addr-line>Centre of Exercise and Sports Science Research, School of Medical and Health Sciences, Edith Cowan University, Perth, Australia</addr-line>
</aff>
<contrib-group>
<contrib contrib-type="editor">
<name>
<surname>Ito</surname>
<given-names>Etsuro</given-names>
</name>
<role>Editor</role>
<xref ref-type="aff" rid="edit1"></xref>
</contrib>
</contrib-group>
<aff id="edit1">
<addr-line>Waseda University, JAPAN</addr-line>
</aff>
<author-notes>
<fn fn-type="COI-statement" id="coi001">
<p>
<bold>Competing Interests: </bold>
The authors have declared that no competing interests exist. This does not alter our adherence to all the PLOS ONE policies on sharing data and materials.</p>
</fn>
<fn fn-type="con">
<p>
<list list-type="simple">
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Conceptualization:</bold>
LS RC DO YC JC.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Data curation:</bold>
LS RC DO YC.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Formal analysis:</bold>
LS RC DO YC.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Funding acquisition:</bold>
LS.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Investigation:</bold>
LS RC DO YC.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Methodology:</bold>
LS RC DO YC JC.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Project administration:</bold>
LS DO JC.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Resources:</bold>
LS.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Software:</bold>
RC DO YC.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Supervision:</bold>
LS DO.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Validation:</bold>
LS RC DO YC.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Visualization:</bold>
LS RC DO YC.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Writing – original draft:</bold>
LS RC DO YC JC.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>
<bold>Writing – review & editing:</bold>
LS RC DO YC JC.</p>
</list-item>
</list>
</p>
</fn>
<corresp id="cor001">* E-mail:
<email>ludovic.seifert@univ-rouen.fr</email>
</corresp>
</author-notes>
<pub-date pub-type="epub">
<day>25</day>
<month>4</month>
<year>2017</year>
</pub-date>
<pub-date pub-type="collection">
<year>2017</year>
</pub-date>
<volume>12</volume>
<issue>4</issue>
<elocation-id>e0176306</elocation-id>
<history>
<date date-type="received">
<day>13</day>
<month>12</month>
<year>2016</year>
</date>
<date date-type="accepted">
<day>7</day>
<month>4</month>
<year>2017</year>
</date>
</history>
<permissions>
<copyright-statement>© 2017 Seifert et al</copyright-statement>
<copyright-year>2017</copyright-year>
<copyright-holder>Seifert et al</copyright-holder>
<license xlink:href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">
<license-p>This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the
<ext-link ext-link-type="uri" xlink:href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">Creative Commons Attribution License</ext-link>
, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited.</license-p>
</license>
</permissions>
<self-uri content-type="pdf" xlink:href="pone.0176306.pdf"></self-uri>
<abstract>
<p>This study examined the role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and on exploratory movements of the limbs, in order to understand whether previewing helps people to perceive and to realize affordances. Eight inexperienced and ten experienced climbers previewed a 10 m high route of 5b difficulty on French scale, then climbed it with a top-rope as fluently as possible. Gaze behavior was collected from an eye tracking system during the preview and allowed us to determine the number of times they scanned the route, and which of four route previewing strategies (fragmentary, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks) they used. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, both feet, and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction of each limb and hip during the ascent. We were able to detect movement and immobility phases of each IMU using segmentation and classification processes. Depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving, five states of behavior were detected: immobility, postural regulation, hold exploration, hold change, and hold traction. Using cluster analysis we identified four clusters of gaze behavior during route previewing depending on route preview duration, number of scan paths, fixations duration, ascending, zigzagging, and sequence-of-blocks strategies. The number of scan paths was positively correlated with relative duration of exploration and negatively correlated with relative duration of hold changes during the ascent. Additionally, a high relative duration of sequence-of-blocks strategy and zigzagging strategy were associated with a high relative duration of immobility during the ascent. Route previewing might help to pick up functional information about reachable, graspable, and usable holds, in order to chain movements together and to find the route. In other words, route previewing might contribute to perceiving and realizing nested affordances.</p>
</abstract>
<funding-group>
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<funding-source>
<institution>CPER/FEDER</institution>
</funding-source>
<award-id>GRR Logistic, Mobility and Numeric - RISC 1880 / FEDER 33172</award-id>
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<institution>Edith Cowan University</institution>
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<principal-award-recipient>
<name>
<surname>Croft</surname>
<given-names>James L.</given-names>
</name>
</principal-award-recipient>
</award-group>
<funding-statement>This project received the support of the CPER/FEDER, GRR “Logistic, Mobility and Numeric” RISC 1880 - FEDER 33172 for (LS). This project also received the funding of the French National Agency of Research (ID: ANR-13-JSH2-0004 DynaMov) for (LS) and Edith Cowan University for (JLC). The funders had no role in study design, data collection and analysis, decision to publish, or preparation of the manuscript. This does not alter our adherence to all the PLOS ONE policies on sharing data and materials.</funding-statement>
</funding-group>
<counts>
<fig-count count="6"></fig-count>
<table-count count="3"></table-count>
<page-count count="22"></page-count>
</counts>
<custom-meta-group>
<custom-meta id="data-availability">
<meta-name>Data Availability</meta-name>
<meta-value>All relevant data are within the paper and its Supporting Information files. First Supporting Information file provides holds x,y coordinates in the climbing wall plan reference. Second Supporting Information file provide one sheet for each participant, including fixation x,y coordinates in the climbing wall plan reference, the fixation duration and the distance of the fixation from the closest hold.</meta-value>
</custom-meta>
</custom-meta-group>
</article-meta>
<notes>
<title>Data Availability</title>
<p>All relevant data are within the paper and its Supporting Information files. First Supporting Information file provides holds x,y coordinates in the climbing wall plan reference. Second Supporting Information file provide one sheet for each participant, including fixation x,y coordinates in the climbing wall plan reference, the fixation duration and the distance of the fixation from the closest hold.</p>
</notes>
</front>
</pmc>
<affiliations>
<list>
<country>
<li>Australie</li>
<li>France</li>
<li>Pays-Bas</li>
</country>
<region>
<li>Haute-Normandie</li>
<li>Hollande-Septentrionale</li>
<li>Région Normandie</li>
</region>
<settlement>
<li>Amsterdam</li>
<li>Rouen</li>
</settlement>
<orgName>
<li>Université d'Amsterdam</li>
</orgName>
</list>
<tree>
<country name="France">
<region name="Région Normandie">
<name sortKey="Seifert, Ludovic" sort="Seifert, Ludovic" uniqKey="Seifert L" first="Ludovic" last="Seifert">Ludovic Seifert</name>
</region>
<name sortKey="Cordier, Romain" sort="Cordier, Romain" uniqKey="Cordier R" first="Romain" last="Cordier">Romain Cordier</name>
<name sortKey="Courtine, Yoan" sort="Courtine, Yoan" uniqKey="Courtine Y" first="Yoan" last="Courtine">Yoan Courtine</name>
</country>
<country name="Pays-Bas">
<region name="Hollande-Septentrionale">
<name sortKey="Orth, Dominic" sort="Orth, Dominic" uniqKey="Orth D" first="Dominic" last="Orth">Dominic Orth</name>
</region>
</country>
<country name="Australie">
<noRegion>
<name sortKey="Croft, James L" sort="Croft, James L" uniqKey="Croft J" first="James L." last="Croft">James L. Croft</name>
</noRegion>
</country>
</tree>
</affiliations>
</record>

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