Stretching properties of xanthan, carob, modified guar and celluloses in cosmetic emulsions.
Identifieur interne : 000153 ( PubMed/Checkpoint ); précédent : 000152; suivant : 000154Stretching properties of xanthan, carob, modified guar and celluloses in cosmetic emulsions.
Auteurs : Laura Gilbert [France] ; Vincent Loisel ; Géraldine Savary ; Michel Grisel ; Céline PicardSource :
- Carbohydrate polymers [ 1879-1344 ] ; 2013.
English descriptors
- KwdEn :
- Compressive Strength, Cosmetics (analysis), Cosmetics (chemistry), Elasticity, Emulsions (chemistry), Galactans (chemistry), Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic Interactions, Mannans (chemistry), Plant Gums (chemistry), Polysaccharides (chemistry), Polysaccharides, Bacterial (chemistry), Rheology (instrumentation), Rheology (methods), Shear Strength, Solutions (chemistry), Stress, Mechanical, Viscosity.
- MESH :
- chemical , analysis : Cosmetics.
- chemical , chemistry : Cosmetics, Emulsions, Galactans, Mannans, Plant Gums, Polysaccharides, Polysaccharides, Bacterial, Solutions.
- instrumentation : Rheology.
- methods : Rheology.
- Compressive Strength, Elasticity, Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic Interactions, Shear Strength, Stress, Mechanical, Viscosity.
Abstract
The filament stretching properties of various polysaccharides (including xanthan, carob, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropylmethyl and hydroxyethyl celluloses) were investigated and compared to synthetic polymers generally used as texturing agents in cosmetic emulsions. The stretchability was examined by sensory evaluation as "the amount of sample that strings rather than breaks when fingers are separated". Different behaviors were evidenced: the xanthan emulsion showed the highest stretchability, followed by the hydroxypropyl guar and hydroxyethyl cellulose emulsions while the synthetic polymers presented stretching properties to a much lesser extent. The instrumental characterization of the stretchability was conducted at a controlled speed and recorded with a camera using a texture analyzer. The maximum stretchable length at 40mm/s was highly significantly correlated to the sensory Stringiness, thus allowing a good predictability of this attribute. Finally, this method was applied to aqueous solutions to better understand the role of the polymers in emulsion and to validate the measurement on a wider range of products.
DOI: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2012.12.028
PubMed: 23499107
Affiliations:
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first="Vincent" last="Loisel">Vincent Loisel</name></author><author><name sortKey="Savary, Geraldine" sort="Savary, Geraldine" uniqKey="Savary G" first="Géraldine" last="Savary">Géraldine Savary</name></author><author><name sortKey="Grisel, Michel" sort="Grisel, Michel" uniqKey="Grisel M" first="Michel" last="Grisel">Michel Grisel</name></author><author><name sortKey="Picard, Celine" sort="Picard, Celine" uniqKey="Picard C" first="Céline" last="Picard">Céline Picard</name></author></titleStmt><publicationStmt><idno type="wicri:source">PubMed</idno><date when="2013">2013</date><idno type="RBID">pubmed:23499107</idno><idno type="pmid">23499107</idno><idno type="doi">10.1016/j.carbpol.2012.12.028</idno><idno type="wicri:Area/PubMed/Corpus">000164</idno><idno type="wicri:Area/PubMed/Curation">000164</idno><idno type="wicri:Area/PubMed/Checkpoint">000164</idno></publicationStmt><sourceDesc><biblStruct><analytic><title xml:lang="en">Stretching properties of xanthan, carob, modified guar and 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uniqKey="Savary G" first="Géraldine" last="Savary">Géraldine Savary</name></author><author><name sortKey="Grisel, Michel" sort="Grisel, Michel" uniqKey="Grisel M" first="Michel" last="Grisel">Michel Grisel</name></author><author><name sortKey="Picard, Celine" sort="Picard, Celine" uniqKey="Picard C" first="Céline" last="Picard">Céline Picard</name></author></analytic><series><title level="j">Carbohydrate polymers</title><idno type="eISSN">1879-1344</idno><imprint><date when="2013" type="published">2013</date></imprint></series></biblStruct></sourceDesc></fileDesc><profileDesc><textClass><keywords scheme="KwdEn" xml:lang="en"><term>Compressive Strength</term><term>Cosmetics (analysis)</term><term>Cosmetics (chemistry)</term><term>Elasticity</term><term>Emulsions (chemistry)</term><term>Galactans (chemistry)</term><term>Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic Interactions</term><term>Mannans (chemistry)</term><term>Plant Gums (chemistry)</term><term>Polysaccharides (chemistry)</term><term>Polysaccharides, Bacterial (chemistry)</term><term>Rheology (instrumentation)</term><term>Rheology (methods)</term><term>Shear Strength</term><term>Solutions (chemistry)</term><term>Stress, Mechanical</term><term>Viscosity</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" type="chemical" qualifier="analysis" xml:lang="en"><term>Cosmetics</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" type="chemical" qualifier="chemistry" xml:lang="en"><term>Cosmetics</term><term>Emulsions</term><term>Galactans</term><term>Mannans</term><term>Plant Gums</term><term>Polysaccharides</term><term>Polysaccharides, Bacterial</term><term>Solutions</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" qualifier="instrumentation" xml:lang="en"><term>Rheology</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" qualifier="methods" xml:lang="en"><term>Rheology</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" xml:lang="en"><term>Compressive Strength</term><term>Elasticity</term><term>Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic Interactions</term><term>Shear Strength</term><term>Stress, Mechanical</term><term>Viscosity</term></keywords></textClass></profileDesc></teiHeader><front><div type="abstract" xml:lang="en">The filament stretching properties of various polysaccharides (including xanthan, carob, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropylmethyl and hydroxyethyl celluloses) were investigated and compared to synthetic polymers generally used as texturing agents in cosmetic emulsions. The stretchability was examined by sensory evaluation as "the amount of sample that strings rather than breaks when fingers are separated". Different behaviors were evidenced: the xanthan emulsion showed the highest stretchability, followed by the hydroxypropyl guar and hydroxyethyl cellulose emulsions while the synthetic polymers presented stretching properties to a much lesser extent. The instrumental characterization of the stretchability was conducted at a controlled speed and recorded with a camera using a texture analyzer. The maximum stretchable length at 40mm/s was highly significantly correlated to the sensory Stringiness, thus allowing a good predictability of this attribute. Finally, this method was applied to aqueous solutions to better understand the role of the polymers in emulsion and to validate the measurement on a wider range of products.</div></front></TEI><pubmed><MedlineCitation Status="MEDLINE" Owner="NLM"><PMID Version="1">23499107</PMID><DateCreated><Year>2013</Year><Month>3</Month><Day>18</Day></DateCreated><DateCompleted><Year>2013</Year><Month>09</Month><Day>19</Day></DateCompleted><DateRevised><Year>2015</Year><Month>11</Month><Day>19</Day></DateRevised><Article PubModel="Print-Electronic"><Journal><ISSN IssnType="Electronic">1879-1344</ISSN><JournalIssue CitedMedium="Internet"><Volume>93</Volume><Issue>2</Issue><PubDate><Year>2013</Year><Month>Apr</Month><Day>2</Day></PubDate></JournalIssue><Title>Carbohydrate polymers</Title><ISOAbbreviation>Carbohydr Polym</ISOAbbreviation></Journal><ArticleTitle>Stretching properties of xanthan, carob, modified guar and celluloses in cosmetic emulsions.</ArticleTitle><Pagination><MedlinePgn>644-50</MedlinePgn></Pagination><ELocationID EIdType="doi" ValidYN="Y">10.1016/j.carbpol.2012.12.028</ELocationID><ELocationID EIdType="pii" ValidYN="Y">S0144-8617(12)01251-9</ELocationID><Abstract><AbstractText>The filament stretching properties of various polysaccharides (including xanthan, carob, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropylmethyl and hydroxyethyl celluloses) were investigated and compared to synthetic polymers generally used as texturing agents in cosmetic emulsions. The stretchability was examined by sensory evaluation as "the amount of sample that strings rather than breaks when fingers are separated". Different behaviors were evidenced: the xanthan emulsion showed the highest stretchability, followed by the hydroxypropyl guar and hydroxyethyl cellulose emulsions while the synthetic polymers presented stretching properties to a much lesser extent. The instrumental characterization of the stretchability was conducted at a controlled speed and recorded with a camera using a texture analyzer. The maximum stretchable length at 40mm/s was highly significantly correlated to the sensory Stringiness, thus allowing a good predictability of this attribute. Finally, this method was applied to aqueous solutions to better understand the role of the polymers in emulsion and to validate the measurement on a wider range of products.</AbstractText><CopyrightInformation>Copyright © 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.</CopyrightInformation></Abstract><AuthorList CompleteYN="Y"><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Gilbert</LastName><ForeName>Laura</ForeName><Initials>L</Initials><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>Université du Havre, URCOM, EA 3221, FR CNRS 3038, 25, rue Philippe Lebon B.P. 540, 76058 Le Havre Cedex, France.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo></Author><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Loisel</LastName><ForeName>Vincent</ForeName><Initials>V</Initials></Author><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Savary</LastName><ForeName>Géraldine</ForeName><Initials>G</Initials></Author><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Grisel</LastName><ForeName>Michel</ForeName><Initials>M</Initials></Author><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Picard</LastName><ForeName>Céline</ForeName><Initials>C</Initials></Author></AuthorList><Language>ENG</Language><PublicationTypeList><PublicationType UI="D003160">Comparative Study</PublicationType><PublicationType UI="D016428">Journal Article</PublicationType><PublicationType UI="D013485">Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't</PublicationType></PublicationTypeList><ArticleDate DateType="Electronic"><Year>2012</Year><Month>Dec</Month><Day>25</Day></ArticleDate></Article><MedlineJournalInfo><Country>England</Country><MedlineTA>Carbohydr Polym</MedlineTA><NlmUniqueID>8307156</NlmUniqueID><ISSNLinking>0144-8617</ISSNLinking></MedlineJournalInfo><ChemicalList><Chemical><RegistryNumber>0</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="D003358">Cosmetics</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>0</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="D004655">Emulsions</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>0</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="D005685">Galactans</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>0</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="D008351">Mannans</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>0</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="D053149">Plant Gums</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>0</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="D011134">Polysaccharides</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>0</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="D011135">Polysaccharides, Bacterial</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>0</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="D012996">Solutions</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>0</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="C519976">hydroxypropyl guar</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>E89I1637KE</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="C007894">guar gum</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>TTV12P4NEE</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="C002563">xanthan gum</NameOfSubstance></Chemical><Chemical><RegistryNumber>V4716MY704</RegistryNumber><NameOfSubstance UI="C017471">locust bean gum</NameOfSubstance></Chemical></ChemicalList><CitationSubset>IM</CitationSubset><MeshHeadingList><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D019245" MajorTopicYN="N">Compressive Strength</DescriptorName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName 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MajorTopicYN="N">Plant Gums</DescriptorName><QualifierName UI="Q000737" MajorTopicYN="Y">chemistry</QualifierName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D011134" MajorTopicYN="N">Polysaccharides</DescriptorName><QualifierName UI="Q000737" MajorTopicYN="N">chemistry</QualifierName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D011135" MajorTopicYN="N">Polysaccharides, Bacterial</DescriptorName><QualifierName UI="Q000737" MajorTopicYN="Y">chemistry</QualifierName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D012212" MajorTopicYN="N">Rheology</DescriptorName><QualifierName UI="Q000295" MajorTopicYN="N">instrumentation</QualifierName><QualifierName UI="Q000379" MajorTopicYN="N">methods</QualifierName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D033081" MajorTopicYN="N">Shear Strength</DescriptorName></MeshHeading><MeshHeading><DescriptorName UI="D012996" MajorTopicYN="N">Solutions</DescriptorName><QualifierName UI="Q000737" 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PubStatus="medline"><Year>2013</Year><Month>9</Month><Day>21</Day><Hour>6</Hour><Minute>0</Minute></PubMedPubDate></History><PublicationStatus>ppublish</PublicationStatus><ArticleIdList><ArticleId IdType="pubmed">23499107</ArticleId><ArticleId IdType="pii">S0144-8617(12)01251-9</ArticleId><ArticleId IdType="doi">10.1016/j.carbpol.2012.12.028</ArticleId></ArticleIdList></PubmedData></pubmed><affiliations><list><country><li>France</li></country><region><li>Haute-Normandie</li><li>Région Normandie</li></region><settlement><li>Le Havre</li></settlement><orgName><li>Université du Havre</li></orgName></list><tree><noCountry><name sortKey="Grisel, Michel" sort="Grisel, Michel" uniqKey="Grisel M" first="Michel" last="Grisel">Michel Grisel</name><name sortKey="Loisel, Vincent" sort="Loisel, Vincent" uniqKey="Loisel V" first="Vincent" last="Loisel">Vincent Loisel</name><name sortKey="Picard, Celine" sort="Picard, Celine" uniqKey="Picard C" first="Céline" last="Picard">Céline Picard</name><name sortKey="Savary, Geraldine" sort="Savary, Geraldine" uniqKey="Savary G" first="Géraldine" last="Savary">Géraldine Savary</name></noCountry><country name="France"><region name="Région Normandie"><name sortKey="Gilbert, Laura" sort="Gilbert, Laura" uniqKey="Gilbert L" first="Laura" last="Gilbert">Laura Gilbert</name></region></country></tree></affiliations></record>Pour manipuler ce document sous Unix (Dilib)
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