Coordination in Climbing: Effect of Skill, Practice and Constraints Manipulation.
Identifieur interne : 002125 ( PubMed/Checkpoint ); précédent : 002124; suivant : 002126Coordination in Climbing: Effect of Skill, Practice and Constraints Manipulation.
Auteurs : Dominic Orth [France] ; Keith Davids [Royaume-Uni] ; Ludovic Seifert [France]Source :
- Sports medicine (Auckland, N.Z.) [ 1179-2035 ] ; 2016.
Descripteurs français
- KwdFr :
- MESH :
- physiologie : Performance psychomotrice, Sports.
- Humains, Mouvement.
English descriptors
- KwdEn :
- MESH :
- physiology : Psychomotor Performance, Sports.
- Humans, Movement.
Abstract
Climbing is a physical activity and sport involving many subdisciplines. Minimization of prolonged pauses, use of a relatively simple path through a route and smooth transitions between movements broadly define skilled coordination in climbing.
DOI: 10.1007/s40279-015-0417-5
PubMed: 26604101
Affiliations:
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UK.</nlm:affiliation><country xml:lang="fr">Royaume-Uni</country><wicri:regionArea>Centre for Sports Engineering Research, Sheffield Hallam University, Sheffield</wicri:regionArea><wicri:noRegion>Sheffield</wicri:noRegion></affiliation></author><author><name sortKey="Seifert, Ludovic" sort="Seifert, Ludovic" uniqKey="Seifert L" first="Ludovic" last="Seifert">Ludovic Seifert</name><affiliation wicri:level="1"><nlm:affiliation>CETAPS-EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, Mont Saint Aignan, France.</nlm:affiliation><country xml:lang="fr">France</country><wicri:regionArea>CETAPS-EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, Mont Saint Aignan</wicri:regionArea><wicri:noRegion>Mont Saint Aignan</wicri:noRegion><wicri:noRegion>Mont Saint Aignan</wicri:noRegion></affiliation></author></titleStmt><publicationStmt><idno type="wicri:source">PubMed</idno><date when="2016">2016</date><idno type="RBID">pubmed:26604101</idno><idno type="pmid">26604101</idno><idno 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xml:lang="fr">France</country><wicri:regionArea>CETAPS-EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, Mont Saint Aignan</wicri:regionArea><wicri:noRegion>Mont Saint Aignan</wicri:noRegion><wicri:noRegion>Mont Saint Aignan</wicri:noRegion></affiliation></author><author><name sortKey="Davids, Keith" sort="Davids, Keith" uniqKey="Davids K" first="Keith" last="Davids">Keith Davids</name><affiliation wicri:level="1"><nlm:affiliation>Centre for Sports Engineering Research, Sheffield Hallam University, Sheffield, UK.</nlm:affiliation><country xml:lang="fr">Royaume-Uni</country><wicri:regionArea>Centre for Sports Engineering Research, Sheffield Hallam University, Sheffield</wicri:regionArea><wicri:noRegion>Sheffield</wicri:noRegion></affiliation></author><author><name sortKey="Seifert, Ludovic" sort="Seifert, Ludovic" uniqKey="Seifert L" first="Ludovic" last="Seifert">Ludovic Seifert</name><affiliation wicri:level="1"><nlm:affiliation>CETAPS-EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, Mont Saint Aignan, France.</nlm:affiliation><country xml:lang="fr">France</country><wicri:regionArea>CETAPS-EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, Mont Saint Aignan</wicri:regionArea><wicri:noRegion>Mont Saint Aignan</wicri:noRegion><wicri:noRegion>Mont Saint Aignan</wicri:noRegion></affiliation></author></analytic><series><title level="j">Sports medicine (Auckland, N.Z.)</title><idno type="eISSN">1179-2035</idno><imprint><date when="2016" type="published">2016</date></imprint></series></biblStruct></sourceDesc></fileDesc><profileDesc><textClass><keywords scheme="KwdEn" xml:lang="en"><term>Humans</term><term>Movement</term><term>Psychomotor Performance (physiology)</term><term>Sports (physiology)</term></keywords><keywords scheme="KwdFr" xml:lang="fr"><term>Humains</term><term>Mouvement</term><term>Performance psychomotrice (physiologie)</term><term>Sports (physiologie)</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" qualifier="physiologie" xml:lang="fr"><term>Performance psychomotrice</term><term>Sports</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" qualifier="physiology" xml:lang="en"><term>Psychomotor Performance</term><term>Sports</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" xml:lang="en"><term>Humans</term><term>Movement</term></keywords><keywords scheme="MESH" xml:lang="fr"><term>Humains</term><term>Mouvement</term></keywords></textClass></profileDesc></teiHeader><front><div type="abstract" xml:lang="en">Climbing is a physical activity and sport involving many subdisciplines. Minimization of prolonged pauses, use of a relatively simple path through a route and smooth transitions between movements broadly define skilled coordination in climbing.</div></front></TEI><pubmed><MedlineCitation Status="MEDLINE" Owner="NLM"><PMID Version="1">26604101</PMID><DateCreated><Year>2016</Year><Month>01</Month><Day>26</Day></DateCreated><DateCompleted><Year>2016</Year><Month>12</Month><Day>13</Day></DateCompleted><DateRevised><Year>2017</Year><Month>11</Month><Day>14</Day></DateRevised><Article PubModel="Print"><Journal><ISSN IssnType="Electronic">1179-2035</ISSN><JournalIssue CitedMedium="Internet"><Volume>46</Volume><Issue>2</Issue><PubDate><Year>2016</Year><Month>Feb</Month></PubDate></JournalIssue><Title>Sports medicine (Auckland, N.Z.)</Title><ISOAbbreviation>Sports Med</ISOAbbreviation></Journal><ArticleTitle>Coordination in Climbing: Effect of Skill, Practice and Constraints Manipulation.</ArticleTitle><Pagination><MedlinePgn>255-68</MedlinePgn></Pagination><ELocationID EIdType="doi" ValidYN="Y">10.1007/s40279-015-0417-5</ELocationID><Abstract><AbstractText Label="BACKGROUND" NlmCategory="BACKGROUND">Climbing is a physical activity and sport involving many subdisciplines. Minimization of prolonged pauses, use of a relatively simple path through a route and smooth transitions between movements broadly define skilled coordination in climbing.</AbstractText><AbstractText Label="OBJECTIVES" NlmCategory="OBJECTIVE">To provide an overview of the constraints on skilled coordination in climbing and to explore future directions in this emerging field.</AbstractText><AbstractText Label="METHODS" NlmCategory="METHODS">A systematic literature review was conducted in 2014 and retrieved studies reporting perceptual and movement data during climbing tasks. To be eligible for the qualitative synthesis, studies were required to report perceptual or movement data during climbing tasks graded for difficulty.</AbstractText><AbstractText Label="RESULTS" NlmCategory="RESULTS">Qualitative synthesis of 42 studies was carried out, showing that skilled coordination in climbing is underpinned by superior perception of climbing opportunities; optimization of spatial-temporal features pertaining to body-to-wall coordination, the climb trajectory and hand-to-hold surface contact; and minimization of exploratory behaviour. Improvements in skilled coordination due to practice are related to task novelty and the difficulty of the climbing route relative to the individual's ability level.</AbstractText><AbstractText Label="CONCLUSION" NlmCategory="CONCLUSIONS">Perceptual and motor adaptations that improve skilled coordination are highly significant for improving the climbing ability level. Elite climbers exhibit advantages in detection and use of climbing opportunities when visually inspecting a route from the ground and when physically moving though a route. However, the need to provide clear guidelines on how to improve climbing skill arises from uncertainties regarding the impacts of different practice interventions on learning and transfer.</AbstractText></Abstract><AuthorList CompleteYN="Y"><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Orth</LastName><ForeName>Dominic</ForeName><Initials>D</Initials><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>CETAPS-EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, Mont Saint Aignan, France. dominic.orth1@univ-rouen.fr.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>School of Exercise and Nutrition Science, Queensland University of Technology, Brisbane, QLD, Australia. dominic.orth1@univ-rouen.fr.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo></Author><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Davids</LastName><ForeName>Keith</ForeName><Initials>K</Initials><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>Centre for Sports Engineering Research, Sheffield Hallam University, Sheffield, UK.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>FiDiPro Programme, University of Jyväskylä, Jyväskylä, Finland.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo></Author><Author ValidYN="Y"><LastName>Seifert</LastName><ForeName>Ludovic</ForeName><Initials>L</Initials><AffiliationInfo><Affiliation>CETAPS-EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, Mont Saint Aignan, France.</Affiliation></AffiliationInfo></Author></AuthorList><Language>eng</Language><PublicationTypeList><PublicationType UI="D016428">Journal Article</PublicationType><PublicationType UI="D013485">Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't</PublicationType><PublicationType UI="D016454">Review</PublicationType></PublicationTypeList></Article><MedlineJournalInfo><Country>New Zealand</Country><MedlineTA>Sports Med</MedlineTA><NlmUniqueID>8412297</NlmUniqueID><ISSNLinking>0112-1642</ISSNLinking></MedlineJournalInfo><CitationSubset>IM</CitationSubset><CommentsCorrectionsList><CommentsCorrections RefType="Cites"><RefSource>J Mot Behav. 2002 Mar;34(1):25-36</RefSource><PMID 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